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  1. Machinery
  2. Spotline V2

Spotline V2 Accessories

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Last updated 11 months ago

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Mounting and Rigging with Accessories

[f][g]

Tensioner - Deck Winch

Required Hardware

  1. 4 @ ½”x5” Bolts

  2. 8 @ ½” Flat Washers

  3. 4 @ ½” Lock Nuts

  4. 4 @ ½” Lag Screws (2 long and 2 short)

  5. 2 short lags go through the steel strap at the front

  6. 2 long lags go through the square tube at the back

  7. 4 @ ½” Lock Washers

Process:

  1. Bolt the tensioner to the bottom of the Spotline with at least 4 x ½” x 5” bolts, washers and lock nuts.

  2. Secure the Tensioner to the deck using ½” lag bolts and lock nuts. Keep in mind that you will need longer lags to go through the 2” square tube at the back of the machine.

[Spotline and Tensioner]

Tensioner - Curtain Winch - From Deck

Required Hardware

  1. Spotline secures with same tensioner hardware

  2. 2 @ ¼” Pulleys

  3. 4 @ ½” Lag Screws

  4. 4 @ ½” Lock Washers

Process:

  1. Secure Spotline and Tensioner the same as in a deck winch configuration

  2. Secure pulleys to the deck to direct the cable up to the track

  3. Be sure to allow for proper fleet off the drum

Tensioner - Curtain Winch - From Truss

Hanging Hardware

  1. 4 @ ½ Cheeseborough Clamps

  2. 4 @ ½” Bolts (appropriate for the cheeseborough)

  3. 4 @ ½” Flat Washers

  4. 4 @ ½” Lock Nuts

Tensioner Hardware

  1. 4 @ ½”x5” Bolts

  2. 8 @ ½” Flat Washers

  3. 4 @ ½” Lock Nuts

Process

  1. Attach Tensioner to bottom of Spotline

  2. Bolt the half-cheeseboroughs to four (4) corners of the front, back, top, or bottom of the Spotline tube framing or the Tensioner. Be sure to follow the bolting guide for proper placement.

  3. Note the hole spacings for various truss widths

  4. Secure the cheeseboroughs to the truss

Rigging as a Deck Winch or Curtain Track - Single Cable Loop

  1. Use the threaded rods to evenly move the pulleys towards the flat steel at the front of the tensioner. The backside has tube steel

  2. If you use a cable pull to get to a good system tension right away, we recommend leaving at least 1” of threaded rod to fully SLACK the system if necessary

  1. Reave the open end backwards through the full track system, starting with the pulley furthest from the motor

  2. Ensure the rope is captured or can be captured by the scenery carrier or dog

  3. Reave through the inside pulley and into Entry Point 1 - the drum at the end closest to the motor

  4. Secure the rope to the drum using the ¼”-20 socket head cap screw, leaving a minimal tail of 3-6 inches

  5. You can additionally terminate the wire rope with a NicoPress Stop Sleeve

  6. Maintain tension on the rope, and slowly jog forward to load three (3) wraps of rope onto the drum. This is the beginning of your actual travel distance

  7. Continue to hold tension and load the drum until you have enough for your maximum travel

  8. Add at least three (3) additional wraps past your maximum travel. At this point, the minimum amount of rope on your drum should be max travel distance + six (6) wraps

  9. Reave through outside pulley and through the drum entry furthest from the motor

  10. Pull as much slack out of the system as possible

  11. Secure the rope to the drum at Entry Point 2 - the frame end of the drum

  12. Run reverse at least three (3) wraps before securing the scenery carrier or dog to the rope.

  13. This is a good place to set your FWD Ultimate Limit

  14. Adjust system tension as necessary by evenly adjusting the two threaded rods

HINT: If you are only using half a drum or less of travel, load the drum in Step 3 until the rope is aligned 180° from the center opening - Entry Point 3.

Complete the remaining steps, terminating at the center opening - Entry Point 3.

Rigging with Terminated Carrier or Dog - Two Cable Loop

  1. Use the threaded rods to evenly move the pulleys to the edge closest to the track system

  2. We recommend leaving about 1” of travel in the threaded rods to fully loosen the rope if needed

  3. Reave one rope through the inside pulley and terminate to the drum at the end closest to the motor

  4. Load the drum with rope, leaving three (3) wraps free at the outside end of the drum

  5. Move the scenery carrier/dog to the FORWARD most position in the track.

  6. Reave the open end of your first rope through the track system to the forward side of your carrier or dog and terminate to the carrier

  7. Terminate your second piece of rope to the reverse side of the carrier or dog

  8. Reave the free end of the second rope through the track system and into the outside pulley of the Tensioner

  9. If you want to use a cable pull or come-a-long for initial system tension, pull that tension near the reverse end of travel, but before the Tensioner sheave. Note that this pulls tension against your first rope as well

  10. If you use some kind of cable pull or come-a-long, to get to a good system tension right away, it may be useful to give yourself more threaded rod than 1” to fully SLACK the system if necessary

  11. Manually wrap those final 3 wraps before entering and terminating to the drum.

  12. Adjust system tension as necessary by evenly adjusting the two threaded rods

Tension the System

Having good tension in your system is critical for good motion. There are a lot of opinions when it comes to “good tension” of a rope system. Here are some tips to achieving

  • Even across a large span, such as 60’ across a stage, you only want to see about one (1) inch of natural sag when in tension.

  • Once the Spotline is fully reaved, run through full travel several times and add tension as needed. There is often slack that works itself out around the drum.

  • Check the tension daily (or several times a day at first) for at least a week to remove any cable stretch.

  • If Spikemark indicates movement.

Zero-Fleet Sled

Required Hardware

  1. 4 @ ½” Bolts

  2. 4 @ lock washers or flat washers and lock nuts[h][i]